THE ROAR OF 'GAJON' -- a dying festival
It has its roots in ancient pre historic cults of primitive religions . The gajon festival derives it name from Garjan , which in sanskrit means 'to roar' . The chorus shouts and drumbeats that contributed to the festival's thunderous sounds also lent its characteristic name .
This is a festival of 'lower sections' of the society dedicated to Hindu god Shiva . It is and always have been the festival of the masses . Interested individuals , irrespective of their castes can take up a month long vow of abstinence and physical severity during which they live by begging alms . They are called gajon sanyasis and has a leader who is called mool sannyasi .
At the end of the month long penances the festivities begin . Kanta jhaanp - jumping on a bed of thorns , bontee jhaanp - jumping on bare blades , walking on fire , piercing the tongue , body piercings are the main show . On Chaitra Sankranti , the final day of bengali new year , giant logs called charak gachh are salvaged from ponds , where they have been kept submerged since last year and erected in fields over which revolving wheels are attached . The gajon sannyasis attach themselves to this wheel and rotate furiously . This is charak , derived from sanskrit chakra meaning wheel .
The whole five day spectacle is accompanied by big fairs and 'song' - indegenous costumed men in rich make up , depicting or re enacting scenes from mythology or history . At some isolated places , customs of parading with human corpses or skulls still exist , perhaps in sync with the shmashana-chaari nature of Shiva ( one who roams in the crematoriums ) .
At Kalighat situated right within the heart of Calcutta , the Gajon festival is celebrated with no less gusto . Nakuleshwar Mahadev is the bhairav of DakshinaKali of Kalighat . Early european travellers documented the famous charak festivities of Kalighat Nakuleshwar tola .
Bishop Heber of Calcutta writes “All the persons who walked in the procession, and a large majority of spectators, had their faces, bodies, and white cotton clothes daubed all over with vermilion, the latter to a degree which gave them the appearance of actually being dyed rose-colour. They were also crowned with splendid garlands of flowers … many trophies and pageants of different kinds were paraded up and down, on stages drawn by horses, or bullocks. "
Centuries later , not much have changed . A peek into modern day Gajon celebrations there can take you back in time !
Although Gajon is still observed all across Bengal , it is steadily on way to extinction . Modern western influenced sensibilities restrict us from appreciating the diversity of this world and its customs . In urban settings body peircings are long extinct . Numerous Gajon festivals are no longer held . Many places and localities still bear the name 'charak tola' but the charak is nowhere to be found . What was once a extremely popular festival has become a marginalised spectacle , appealing only to curious onlookers and photographers !
In this age of decline it is the rural villages which have upheld the originality of Charak gajon festival . Even if cities do away with this ancient festival , we can hopefully assume that the remote villages will continue to protect and preserve our heritage for a few more centuries to come !
It has its roots in ancient pre historic cults of primitive religions . The gajon festival derives it name from Garjan , which in sanskrit means 'to roar' . The chorus shouts and drumbeats that contributed to the festival's thunderous sounds also lent its characteristic name .
 |
| Lithograph from Sir Charles D’Oyly’s ‘Views of Calcutta and its environs’ in 1848 showing procession of Charak Gajon festival |
This is a festival of 'lower sections' of the society dedicated to Hindu god Shiva . It is and always have been the festival of the masses . Interested individuals , irrespective of their castes can take up a month long vow of abstinence and physical severity during which they live by begging alms . They are called gajon sanyasis and has a leader who is called mool sannyasi .
At the end of the month long penances the festivities begin . Kanta jhaanp - jumping on a bed of thorns , bontee jhaanp - jumping on bare blades , walking on fire , piercing the tongue , body piercings are the main show . On Chaitra Sankranti , the final day of bengali new year , giant logs called charak gachh are salvaged from ponds , where they have been kept submerged since last year and erected in fields over which revolving wheels are attached . The gajon sannyasis attach themselves to this wheel and rotate furiously . This is charak , derived from sanskrit chakra meaning wheel .
The whole five day spectacle is accompanied by big fairs and 'song' - indegenous costumed men in rich make up , depicting or re enacting scenes from mythology or history . At some isolated places , customs of parading with human corpses or skulls still exist , perhaps in sync with the shmashana-chaari nature of Shiva ( one who roams in the crematoriums ) .
At Kalighat situated right within the heart of Calcutta , the Gajon festival is celebrated with no less gusto . Nakuleshwar Mahadev is the bhairav of DakshinaKali of Kalighat . Early european travellers documented the famous charak festivities of Kalighat Nakuleshwar tola .
Bishop Heber of Calcutta writes “All the persons who walked in the procession, and a large majority of spectators, had their faces, bodies, and white cotton clothes daubed all over with vermilion, the latter to a degree which gave them the appearance of actually being dyed rose-colour. They were also crowned with splendid garlands of flowers … many trophies and pageants of different kinds were paraded up and down, on stages drawn by horses, or bullocks. "
 |
| Sketches of Mrs. Belnos , published from London in 1832 depicting Charak at Kalighat |
 | ||
| Sketches of Mrs. Belnos , published from London in 1832 depicting Charak at Kalighat |
Centuries later , not much have changed . A peek into modern day Gajon celebrations there can take you back in time !
 |
| Aadi Ganga -- The main course of Ganga some 500 years back .. now a creek and sewer canal combined ! |
 |
| Gajon sannyasis |
Although Gajon is still observed all across Bengal , it is steadily on way to extinction . Modern western influenced sensibilities restrict us from appreciating the diversity of this world and its customs . In urban settings body peircings are long extinct . Numerous Gajon festivals are no longer held . Many places and localities still bear the name 'charak tola' but the charak is nowhere to be found . What was once a extremely popular festival has become a marginalised spectacle , appealing only to curious onlookers and photographers !
In this age of decline it is the rural villages which have upheld the originality of Charak gajon festival . Even if cities do away with this ancient festival , we can hopefully assume that the remote villages will continue to protect and preserve our heritage for a few more centuries to come !
 |
| Charak Gaachh puja near my home |
 | |
| Luckily I have a charak swing near my home , but with each passing year attendance and fanfare is dwindling ! |
This is so informative. Many thanks! I was always intrigued by the picture of the Charaka swing as depicted in the Bengali almanac. Being brought up outside Bengal I never witnessed Charak, although heard about Gajan Sannyasis and typical tone on which they would turn up at the door asking for alms. I was in awe when I first witnessed Charak in the early 90's near our house at Joka.
ReplyDeletethanks so much .. my pleasure
DeleteThanks a ton ... Halley, really its fascinating to know about the traditions which are associated with us, but still not much known to us... and eventually we give an alien look to such customs... perhaps your efforts are making us aware of old facts, which are new to our intellect...
ReplyDeleteyoure welcome ... :)
Delete